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T 90 biography, T 90 discography
It is manufactured by Uralvagonzavod in Nizhnyi Tagil, Russia.Russian tank represents an increase in firepower, mobility and protection."The locally assembled tanks are christened 'Bhishma'.Deliveries are to begin in 2008.FRAG (High Explosive Fragmentation) as well as shrapnel projectiles with time fuzes.The range of the missile is 100m to 4,000m and takes 11.It is also fitted with NBC (nuclear, biological and chemical) protection equipment.A4GT integrated fire control system (IFCS) which is automatic but with manual override for the commander.A4GT integrated fire control system (IFCS) which is automatic but with manual override."The mechanical transmission includes primary reduction gear, two planetary final gearboxes and two planetary final drives.Exhibitions
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What is RSS?The video has been added to your playlist.This video will appear on your blog shortly.Content of this nature is not necessarily prohibited on YouTube, however we will review this video and take action as appropriate.Per our Community Guidelines, hate speech is specifically defined in reference to "protected groups."Thank you for sharing your concerns.There may be significant legal penalties for false notices.Please refer to our Help Center for more information and the complete instructions.In order to process a privacy complaint we need more information from you.Please refer to our Help Center for more information and the form to submit.Thank you for sharing this video!After making your selection, copy and paste the embed code above.The code changes based on your selection.This video has been added to your favorites.Thank you for flagging this video.Content of this nature is not necessarily prohibited on YouTube, however we will review this video and take action as appropriate.Per our Community Guidelines, hate speech is specifically defined in reference to "protected groups."In order to process a privacy complaint we need more information from you.Please refer to our Help Center for more information and the form to submit.Change this to see only comments above a certain value.Change the value of a comment by clicking on a thumb.Russia does not have a huge number of any of these weapons only the old t72s which were a good tank and should have stayed with it.Would you like to comment?Video showing the various active protection sys...The code changes based on your selection.Nizhny Tagil MBT was delayed due to lack of funding.It looks increasingly likely however that, different upgrades notwithstanding, it will remain the most modern Russian tank for at least another decade.Chief Designer Vladimir Potkin, who died in 1999.MBT is only present in the Russian Ground Forces in very modest numbers.MBTs ordered in 2004, 17 in 2005, equipping one tank battalion in 2nd Tamanskaja MRD (according to an interview to the daily of the Russian Military "Red Star" by Ground Forces Chief Col.Russian budget is estimated to be around 35mln RUR (USD1.S, has secured important export victories making it one of the most successful export MBTs of the last decade.The first large contract was with India, for delivery of 310 MBTs (124 complete MBTs and 186 kits assembled by Indian enterprises); worth USD 700mln, it has been signed in February 2001 and concluded in 2004.They are not, however, equipped with the Shtora EOCMDAS, though there are reports that a separate contract for shipment of a modernized version of this suite is being discussed.MBTs (called "Bhishma" in Indian service) by 2020, which will require shipment of more components from Russia.There are reports that two more deals, with Lybia and Morocco, are in the works.AAMG mount Utjos NSVT 12.Armor rating, mm RHA:
details upcoming...Venediktov Design Bureau at the Vagonka Works in Nizhniy Tagil.Nizhny Tagil MBT which has been delayed due to lack of funding.Several hundred of these tanks have been produced, with various estimates suggesting that between 100 and 300 are in service, primarily in the Far East.Secondary armament includes a coaxial 7.This ERA gives the turret an angled appearance, with the ERA bricks forming a "clam shell" appearance.SACLOS) antitank guided missiles, laser rangefinders
and target designators.MBT that entered service in the Russian Army in
1993.The screening aerosol takes less than 3 seconds to form and lasts about 20 seconds.This engine results in a power to weight ratio of only 18.The tank crew can prepare fording equipment within 20 minutes to negotiate 5 meter deep water obstacles.The tank is also fitted with the NBC protection system and mounted mineclearing equipment.E, but these appear to be unsubstantiated.Obstacle negotiation
Fording depth 1.OPVT (snorkel)
Trench width 2.Arjun, the main battle tank developed locally after 25 years.USB output, combining the latest digital technology with a unique style that can only be Stanton.PDIF digital outputs make the T.USB great for archiving vinyl.I'd really like this guy..If you wish to
follow these instructions, you will need to manufacture the tools listed below.If you
prefer to use the heavy grease method of assembling the cluster gear, please feel free to
do so.Use these
instructions at you own risk.It will be very beneficial for you to
learn the names of all of the parts from an IPB.Richard Needham's WillysTech postings about sealed bearings.After disassembling mine, I had some trouble getting the parts in a
timely manner.In the several weeks that passed, I forgot much about how it all went
together.Just by pulling the top cover, you could inspect most of the major parts without
much disassembly.My T90 rebuild is finally
done, and I must say that it went along much easier than I had expected.I'm doing this from memory so I hope I'm not leaving anything out, but
here are the more notable points and observations that I encountered...The main
problem was the worn 3rd gear synchro riding up too high on the surface of the input shaft
bevel.But the *cause* of this looked to be the two shims between the rear
shoulder of the mainshaft and the bearing spacer.Universal Jeep) and Rick said he hadn't come across them either.They sit
between the shoulder of the mainshaft and the bearing spacer.He said that the idea was to align the rear
face of the bearing spacer with the rear face of the bearing adapter.Any misalignment should be on the
side of not enough shims rather than too many.When I put it back together I did a test
fit before I put the rear bearing on and decided to not put a shim back in there.This is an inexpensive
item and not too much more work to do.The worst thing in the world is to rebuild the
trans and have it go bad again in a couple hundred miles cause the input shaft is wobbling
all over, take it from me, I learned the hard way.Also, in the excitement of completing
the job, a friend forgot to fill her up with gear lube and drove it around the block, and
right back up on the jack stands.After
going back and replacing the crankshaft pilot bushing, the problem went away.Sunday to
rebuild his T90, it seemed to go well but had a few, if not problems at least some
questions.First, the tranny was apart when *I* got there, and I think Joe said he'd gotten the
tranny and transfer case from separate sources, and already in pieces.It made sanding very easy.Make sure you test fit
the dowel through the front and rear holes of the case prior to assembling the cluster
gear, sanding was required in my case.Also check to insure that the shaft is not too long to fit into the case from the
inside.Ok, folks here's the skinny on this electrical conduit.In addition, Merl is also correct about the length of tools A, B, and C.They
are going to be used as spacers to hold the needle bearings in place during assembly, so
length is not critical.You could also make it from a piece of brass rod but I used the
wooden dowel since I already had some left over.Get the right tool to
install the snap rings.Remove screws
from transfer case rear cover.You may notice
in the picture that the two gears do not mesh.That's because they are not a matched set.Shift the transmission into neutral, remove the six screws from the shift
tower and remove it.To hold the mainshaft in place until removal is desired, install the front two
shift tower screws back into their holes.Separate the transfer case from the transmission.Remove the retainer, seal and gasket.Remove the wire and screws from the case and mainshaft that you installed in step
(2e).This may prove
to be difficult due to the limited space for accessing the reverse idler gear shaft with
the mainshaft installed.In this case brute force applied to the locking plate may be
required.The front hole is a few
thousandths smaller that the back hole.Driving it out the front would be much harder and
could stretch the front hole.Drop the cluster gear into the bottom of the case.Remove the thrust washers from the case.Collect the pilot bearings and put them aside.There is a set of needle bearings
known as pilot bearings that fit inside the main gear.Using tool E drive the reverse idler gear shaft out the back of the case.This must be done from inside the case.Whatever you do, don't drive the shaft into the case.Then you tighten it again and tap
it again until the inside end of the C clamp bottoms out.Danny has a great deal more patience than I have.Now mind you, from
start to breakage only took me 5 minutes.Clamp of very poor quality
so here's what I suggest.Danny's clamp looks a
lot better than the one I was using and he's already proven it can be done.Remove the main bearing snap ring using flat edged snap ring pliers.An alternative is
several taps with the brass hammer.Using flat edged snap ring pliers remove the clutch hub snap ring.Remove the clutch hub from the mainshaft.Holding onto the clutch hub while
gently tapping the mainshaft with a brass hammer will usually coax it off.Use caution when handling the sleeve
and hub.Merl has described a shim installed behind the second speed gear on his mainshaft.It seems
these were installed to bring worn out parts into proper tolerance.You
can not use snap ring pliers to remove this snap ring.Thoroughly clean all parts with solvent.They should be examined to determine common
failure items.This bearing may be changed with a sealed bearing but some
things need to be changed if you do this.This is where the front bearing snap ring sits and
it is used to hold the bearing in place.Note: You must remove the seal from the inside of the bearing, to allow the 90W oil to
lubricate the bearing.When you remove the 3 Allen bolts to take
the cover off the front of the transmission, you will see there are 4 holes in the
transmission the one with no treads is the drain hole.Plug it with silicone or tap it and
use a small pipe plug.At the
time I authored this July 2000) and they had them in stock.The front Bearing Washer should be replaced if bent or scored.The inside diameter can be checked by measuring the diameter of the pilot shaft on
the Mainshaft adding this size to the twice the diameter of a new pilot needle bearing.The sum of these diameters should be within .Main
Drive Gear pilot bearing race.There should be virtually no wobble of
the shafts.If this fit is loose it will cause the pilot bushing in the engine crankshaft
to wear out quickly.Countershaft gear Oil Collector should be examined for cracks and dents.This feeds oil into the needle bearings.In the event that you
ran low on oil the collector would continue to feed oil onto the bearings.The Oil
Collector will also help to prevent the oil from foaming at high speeds.If you choose to buy a new oil collector
make sure you are ready to trim it if necessary.The blocking ring should not fit
all the way down over the mating surface.I've tried to dig
those particles out of there and it isn't worth the effort.Inspection was also easy,
just so long as you know what these things are *supposed* to look like.Turns out that while my 2nd gear synchro
was ok, the 3rd gear was badly worn.As Rick suggests, you might as well just go for new synchros, they're cheap.Inspect the inside splines for sharp edges and burs.If not replace it and the clutch hub.Caution should be used when handling a
used hub as it could have very sharp edges.Check fit on the Mainshaft and inside the Clutch Sleeve for snug fit.If it does not fit
both pieces snugly, replace it.Note the
chevrons on the left gear as compared to the chevrons on the new right gear.If
these chevrons wear down too far, they do not allow the clutch hub a proper gripping area
and this can lead to the tranny pooping out of second.The detent spring in the shift tower and the front and read main bearings
will also cause this problem.Examine for broken or excessively worn teeth.Note that this bearing does not have a snap
ring groove like the front bearing does.If this fit is loose it will
cause excessive wear on the engine crankshaft pilot bushing.Small chips and sharp edges should be dressed with a file.With new
Countershaft Washers, and bearings installed, the cluster gear should have no wobble on
the countershaft.Ensure the countershaft and reverse idler shaft
fit very snugly into the case.You will notice that as the years have passed, people have tried to seal their
leaking cases by tightening the screws tighter.This leads to the edges around the
threaded areas being pulled out from the case.This is no big deal except that it will
keep you from getting a good seal.Remember the intent is to
level the surface again.By the
time you add the parts that the other kits don't have, the price is higher to buy from
anybody else.If this situation changes or somebody has a different experience please let
me know.These are those common type of seals used on the transfer case, timing chain
cover, and other applications.Merl's boys playing in the
grease.The kit didn't have the cork washer, which I wasn't going to use anyway.Instead
there was a small neoprene seal, sized to fit over the input shaft.It looks like the bearing retainer would have to
be different to hold it in place, and the finish on the shaft would have to be smoother.I'm just wondering, that's all.If you are not installing a sealed bearing I highly recommend buying these
parts from Jason at Mile High Jeeps.Before ordering your new parts you should
evaluate the expense involved with doing your rebuild.Rick's technique using the electrical conduit.Install the Front bearing washer onto the main drive gear.This washer is a form
fit washer and should be put on the shaft so that it will match the contour of the
bearing.Install the main drive gear bearing onto the shaft with the snap ring slot forward.This got the bearings hot enough that I don't
think freezing was needed.If the bearing fails to seat all the way onto the shaft you can
persuade it using a brass drift.If you use the outer edge of the bearing you could damage it.Make sure the snap ring groove is forward or you will have to do it again.Install the front bearing snap ring on the outside of the front bearing using flat
bladed snap ring pliers.This snap ring holds the front bearing in the case.Assemble the Countershaft Cluster Gear assembly.Countershaft Cluster Gear use a liberal
amount of grease.But, I was able to put a little light oil in the lube hole in
the middle of the gear so I didn't take it all back apart.Install 22 needle bearings into the space left
between Tool A and the Cluster Gear shaft.While holding Tool A in place, push the needle bearings into the shaft using Tool
D and remove Tool C.Stand the Cluster gear back onto its large end.Tool D (It may be necessary to insert tool B
part of the way into the shaft to remove Tool D).Install 5th bearing washer and 22 needle bearings, followed by 6th
washer.The key here is to get the
bearings to fit firmly but not tight on the ends.Place the large thrust washer coated with assembly grease into position in the
case.Place the small steel thrust washer heavily coated with grease in the case.The
steel thrust washer has a steel tab that will sit on a shoulder in the case.The smaller
thrust washer goes to the rear with the brass side toward the steel washer.It will just
lay in the bottom for now.Place the Oil Collector in position in the case.Do
not install the screws at this time.Don't forget to install
the oil collector in the right order because it won't go in last like I thought it would.Install the Main Drive Gear into case from the front.Things
got pretty slick using assembly lube.Keep in mind when
you put the main drive gear and its bearing in the front of the case, you will have to
back it out partway later.When I had to back out the bearing and shaft
as required, the sealer had partially set and came apart in globs.Hopefully
this will help me get a better seal without that big gap.If you are not replacing the
bearing, a piece of thin metal the appropriate size would work just fine.Take your time and don't use too much force
to insert the countershaft.As the countershaft slides in, Tool A will slide out.Let Tool A fall
out on its own if possible.As per
the manual, once installed, the cluster gear should have between .This should be obtained using thrust washer shims.I've never seen one that
had that much clearance.It kept staying down, not lining up.If yours does not, you will need to either flatten the tabs or break them off.Place the reverse idler gear in position with the larger center hub boss pointing
forward.Install Reverse Idler Gear Shaft from the rear of the case.Watch the position of
the locking plate slot.Do not install the shaft all the way or you will not be able to
install the locking plate.Install the second speed gear onto the mainshaft with the blocking ring mating
surface pointing forward.Place the rear blocking ring on the second speed
gear.Install the synchronizer springs into the clutch hub.They
should be installed in opposite positions with one in the front and one in the rear.This photo shows the
rear of the clutch hub with the shorter but wider boss.Some folks have confused the
direction of this hub during installation and this prevented the transmission from going
together.There are three slots in
the blocking ring that the synchronizer plates must fit into to install.Make sure the
shift fork groove is to the rear of the mainshaft.It can go on the other way, but it will
prevent you from installing the shift tower later.Grease needle bearings and insert them into the main drive gear.Remove Tool A while rotating it.If
you have the small hole adapter the bearing will just sit in an shallow relief in the
adapter.Install the mainshaft from the rear of the case and insert it into the pilot
bearings.If you can't get it to go over the second gear ring, you don't have the clutch sleeve far
enough forward on the mainshaft.Install the screws in the Countershaft Cluster Gear Oil Collector.Install the front bearing retainer gasket and bearing retainer oil seal if used.Mine used a rubber seal installed in the bearing retainer.Install the rear bearing spacer on the mainshaft.If you forget this part the
mainshaft will have too much free play.The only other problem I
had during assembly was getting the rear bearing pressed onto the mainshaft prior to
inserting the mainshaft into the case.Rick's
recommendation below should be followed.The mainshaft washer and nut may be placed on the mainshaft for safekeeping.The front bore of the
countershaft is known for leaking.The flat surface of the bellhousing will sandwich the sealer in place.This could damage the gasket.While you've got your transmission output gear off (you've got to have it off to separate
your TC and transmission), count the number of teeth on that sucker.You never know when
you're going to run across a used Warn OD at a decent price and wouldn't you just HATE to
miss out because you didn't know or guessed wrong?Model
18 rebuild I encountered a new problem.Major lesson learned
last night.When I
filled both with the requisite 6 pints of gear oil and started the engine, I had a puddle
on the floor pretty quickly.This will cause one of two things to happen.Since you must
have the shift tower off when removing or installing the T90, I'd suggest taping a piece
of cardboard across the open case.I'd cry if some crud from under the body fell
in during the installation.Here's new bit
of information for you.This sounds a lot like the binding locking plate
mentioned above and therefore that was inspected and ruled out.In the end the cause
of his problems stemmed from the bearing spacer being too thick (0.Shift the tranny into reverse and rotate the main gear.Shift the tranny into second gear and rotate the main gear.When you do this you
will need to hold the rear bearing retainer in place or it will allow the mainshaft to
slide out the back of the tranny and the pilot bearings will drop to the bottom.Shift the tranny into third gear.Clutch hub sleeve installed with the shift fork groove to the rear.Reverse gear installed with the shift fork groove forward.Clearance for the countershaft locking plate between the cases.I've
decided to agree with Dr.It was causing oil starvation to the bearings.Thanks to Ron Cox and Reed Cary I have been able to add the Shift Tower rebuild
instructions to this guide.Without their help this would not have been possible.Place both shift
rails into the neutral position.Carefully slide the shifter rod forward while rotating the shift lever notch in
the rod toward the bottom of the tower.Do not allow the notch to pass the poppet ball
while it is pointed toward the top or the poppet ball and spring will become trapped in
the notch.Caution: as the rod
slides past the poppet ball, the natural tendency is for the ball to shoot out.Cover the
hole with a rag.Remove the rail and the low and reverse speed gears shifter fork.This leaves the removal of the shift lever.Unscrew the shift tower cap from the shift tower and remove.Slide shift lever
out of the shift tower.It
worked pretty well for me sitting in my lap.It only
takes about 2 minutes to do it with the screwdriver and it's much easier on the spring.Any cracked or otherwise damaged units should be replaced or repaired.Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or bent.Replace shift lever retaining ring if it is bent or broken.On one of the ones I
inspected, there was a groove cut in the shift rail where the poppet ball rode.Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or distorted.The last time I had my shift tower off I
made a few other mods to it.The tail end of the shift tower had
to be filed smooth.This was easy to do by keeping the pressure applied to the
center of the file instead of the ends.It hasn't
leaked any oil since.In addition to this modification my old shift lever had been ground
down a time or two to fit various shifter knobs.When I bought my new knob for the
shifter it would not fit the current thread.Just don't loose patience with it.Make sure the shift lever is to the inside of the rail before installation.Slide the low
and reverse speed gears shifter fork onto the rail Note: it is easy to put this fork on
backwards if you aren't careful.When it is properly installed the fork should fall evenly
in the middle of the shift tower.Depress the poppet ball and poppet ball spring, using a
blunt shaft (Do not use a sharp tipped instrument like a screwdriver or a nail.This is the neutral position.If you have difficulty getting the shaft to go in
more than about 3 inches inspect the interlock pin to make sure it is out of the way.If you remove this pin it will allow the transmission to shift into two
gears at the same time.When it is properly installed the
fork should fall evenly in the middle of the shift tower.Depress the poppet ball and
poppet ball spring, using a blunt shaft and slide the rail in over the poppet ball to the
second groove.Situate the shift lever so that it falls in between both the Low shift fork and the
High shift notch.If there is enough room
in the ends of the rear shaft holes of your shifter, I recommend installing these plugs
there too.
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